Vol.04 街のソウルフードは、安くて美味しい“ヒス...

文:林菜穂子(baCe Inc.) 写真:Fumihiko Sugino アートワーク:Shun Sudo

text by Nahoko Hayashi(baCe, Inc.), photographs by Fumihiko Sugino, artwork by Shun Sudo

Vol.04 街のソウルフードは、安くて美味しい“ヒスパニック”!

The neighborhood’s soul food is affordable and tasty Hispanic!

ベネズエラ料理店「GUACUCO」のオーナー、レオナルドさんのご家族。左からレオナルドさん、妻サラさんとノア君、妹ガブリエラさん、母でシェフのカルメンさん。 Venezuelan restaurant Arepera Guacuco owner Leonardo Molina and his family. From left: Leonardo, his wife Sara and Noah, younger sister Gabriela, and his mother Carmen, the chef.



I became aware of the fact that Bushwick has a deeply rooted Hispanic community—people from Latin America and the Caribbean—when I went to a local supermarket and saw the abundant lineup of items that underpin Hispanic food culture. These included cans of beans, pig feet, and skirt steak, and on top of this, mango, papaya, lime and other kinds of fruit that were much more fresh and inexpensive than what can be found in Manhattan. For a foodie like me, New York was already a gourmet paradise where you can easily enjoy food from around the world, but to learn that this area most likely had affordable and tasty Hispanic food—my “foodie feelers” started tingling.

「GUACUCO」のガラス張りの壁に書かれているのは、アレパだけではありません。エンパナーダもおすすめのメニューです。コロンビアやメキシコでもよく食べられるそうですが、カルメンさんは「国が変われば、味も違う!」といいます。  “Arepas” is not the only item written on the glass storefront of Guacuco. Empanadas are also a recommended item on the menu. While these are also popular in Colombia and Mexico, according to Carmen, “a different country, a different taste.”


The first place I found was a restaurant that had the word “arepas” written on the glass storefront. But I didn’t know what “arepas” was.

“Arepa is a pita-like bread that is made by adding salt and water to white corn flour, and baking it in the oven. Venezuelans eat this every day, all the time and everywhere,” says Leonardo Molina, the owner of Venezuelan restaurant Arepera Guacuco. He has been living in Ridgewood, a community next door to Bushwick, for 11 years now, and opened this store six years ago. “  My restaurant is named after my hometown of Guacuco. My mother, who is the chef, also runs a restaurant in Venezuela”

アレパの代表的なサンドイッチの具材はプルド・ポーク(8ドル)。ほどよい辛さとチェダーチーズの相性が抜群です。 Arepa with pulled pork, a typical filling ($8.00). The moderately spicy meat and cheddar cheese make a great combination.

チキンサラダとアボカドのアレパ(7ドル)は人気メニュー。自家製のGUASACACA(グアサカーカ)というハーブを効かせたソースをかけるとおいしさが倍増します。 A popular arepa is chicken salad and avocado ($7.00). It’s even more delicious with homemade guasacaca, an herb-flavored sauce.


Carmen, the chef, has been going back and forth between Venezuela and the United States for over 20 years. Her authentic arepas are moist inside and crispy outside, with a simple and mild taste that is much like grilled mochi rice cakes. Arepas, which are good to eat as is, or filled with meat, fish or other fillings, is Venezuela’s national food. “The difference in taste is determined by how the dough is kneaded, but I can’t give you the details because that’s a trade secret,” says Leonardo, laughing away cheerfully. On a weekend night, the establishment is packed with customers from around the neighborhood.

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